Cruising the Croatian Coast

From Mostar, Hercegovina, I headed west to Split, Croatia.

The bus followed the coast, and I saw many little towns that looked interesting for next time!

I’d been to Split, Dubrovnik and Korčula on another trip, but I had booked to stay overnight after a six-hour bus ride.

It was nice to know the orientation of a city!

Šibenik was only an hour up the coast.

Very pretty old town with two fortresses and enough old streets to keep me busy.

Katedrala Sveti Jakova (St James Cathedral) was made entirely of stone without brick or wooden supports.

It took 104 years to complete.

There are 70+ sculpted heads on its facade.

The adjacent square is set up for evening presentations. Which blocked a good view of the church 🙄

St Michael’s Fortress was mentioned for the first time in 1066, and has been destroyed and rebuilt many times.

Restorations include a open-air stage

Looking down at a cemetery

Seaside promenade with another few hundred more places to drink coffee

Water clock that has little spouts of water to mark the time

St Francis’ church (14th century) with the wooden ceiling from 1674

My last inexpensive meal. 6 Bosnian Marks (€3) in Mostar.

And the coast means seafood heaven!

Octopus salad

Fried octopus (calamari) with Swiss chard because I didn’t want fries. I know.

Biograd Na Moru was picked at random because it was small town on the coast that I could get to.

It’s surrounded by marinas, so lots of tourist infrastructure for a small place.

I also met a German couple who came on a two-week package. There are some medium sized hotels that stretch down the coast.

For my two days I basically stayed in the circular area. Which was fun as streets crisscrossed and I was always finding a new route.

The view of the marina from my apartment.

Lots of fishing boats, ferries and charters.

Grilled mackerel with the ubiquitous Swiss chard

And a complementary homemade rakija (brandy)

Salad is always good when it’s hot!

This was tuna on a mixed salad. And the good stuff in olive oil!

Zadar Old Town is on a small peninsula.

The Church of St. Donat (9th century) beside an old Roman forum.

The front of St Donat with a photo showing the damage from WWII.

Allies had bombed Zadar for almost a year when the German army was here. Not an occupation as the town was controlled by the fascist Croatian government.

St Donat next to the bell tower of St Anastasia’s Cathedral

Side and front St. Anastasia’s Cathedral (12-13th century). It was also heavily damaged and has been reconstructed.

City walls and gates!

Land gate (1543) and the little port of Foša.

Lovely parkland paths on top of the city walls.

Looking down from on top of a gate at one of many early morning street-sweeper machines.

And an army of street cleaners

Roman ruins everywhere!

City Guard building (1542) and clock tower (1798) on Narodni Trg (People’s Square)

The walk that ends on the city walls continues at the other end of the sea port. The easiest and shortest way to get to the other side is by using the services of a ‘Barkajoli’.

This started in the 14th century.

What amazed me is that they cross busy traffic entering the harbour.

I found a great little restaurant that served very fresh fish and homemade wine at a reasonable price. Lots of locals. The second and third time I had just shrimp!

Craving for cevapi!

View from my second apartment overlooking the old town. The first had been in the old town, but I didn’t want to commit to four days. After the late music in Kotor, I’m a bit cautious!

Next up the coast, Rijeka!

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