I added a few days in Mexico on my way to Central America to celebrate Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).

It is rooted in Mexican traditions shaped by Indigenous beliefs and Catholic influences. It celebrates remembrance, family, and the enduring connection between the living and the dead.

Officially it is November 1st and 2nd, but there are special days leading to these.

I chose Puebla because I haven’t been here, it was close to Mexico City where I needed to catch another flight, and it is known for having a smaller but good experience.

I’m happy it wasn’t any bigger! I’m feeling very peopled out!

And for the first time I think I picked a hotel TOO central! I’m across from the Cathedral (1575-1649) and next to the Zocalo (main square) where is the epicentre of the activities.

View from my room during the Sound & Light show.

Large murals created in the Zocalo.

Catrinas are a famous symbol. Elegantly dressed skeletons originated in the artwork of José Guadalupe Posada and later were popularized by Diego Rivera.

Posada’s skeleton mocked a specific kind of aspiration: wanting to look European while rejecting Mexican and Indigenous identity.

Regardless of pretence, all are the same after death.

The children start early with participation in the traditional Mexican custom of ‘pedir calaverita’ (asking for the little skull).

Though I also saw as many orange pumpkins swung my way as skulls, it’s not Halloween.

I quickly ran out of small coins!

Their costumes leaned towards ghoulish!

And they were so serious!

I needed more money too if I wanted to take photos!

During the day I walked around, totally enjoying the city which is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Lots of interesting architecture, colour and shopping.

Large boulevards and narrow little streets.

And churches down every street.

To guide the dead home during this sacred time, families prepare an ofrenda (altar).

Customs vary, but it is often decorated with photographs, candles, candies, favourite foods, drinks and belongings of deceased loved ones.

Cempasuchil, or orange marigold, is ubiquitous.

It’s colour and fragrance are believed to guide returning spirits home.

Then another evening, with the size of the crowd increasing every day until you couldn’t move.

But very few obvious foreigners. It was very enjoyable to watch the families.

By October 31 there seemed to be a merging of Halloween with adults in costume.

And some pretty gory stuff! This fellow appeared to be carrying the top half of a body while dragging the bottom half. I didn’t take a photo of the blood splattered couple with a mallet and smashed doll!

I loved the talavera hand-painted tiles contrasted with dark gray volcanic stone and red brickwork.

Callejon de los Sapos (Frog Alley) is a well known antique market.

Then a ride on the bus to the cemetery. Always fun to figure out public transport!

Families were getting their family plots cleaned up and decorated. On November 1 and 2 they may spend time there with food and music.

I took a minibus tour to two smaller towns.

Entering and leaving the city really made me aware it is the fourth largest city in Mexico.

In Atixco we went to the Palacio Municipal, walked around and had lunch at the Mercado.

Jack the Dog with his own Instagram site!

Crispy grasshoppers look more buggy when sprinkled on corn!

Huaquechala was smaller but famous for its altar.

Another cemetery stop.

Finding a decent coffee early was a challenge. The swill at the 24 hr Oxxo just didn’t do it.

And finally getting good coffee at 830 with a young fellow with a cart of fresh buns made my first morning!

The next mornings I was happy to have yogurt and fruit.

I love finding little family-run places, and this was a good meal of chilaquiles with pork.

I found a little vegetarian restaurant with a vegetable packed tortilla (frittata).

Then street chalupas, a local custom. Tasty but too oily for me.

Sopa de Aztec (tortilla soup) was a nice lunch.

Cemitas are another local specialty. They are HUGE sandwiches that could easily feed two.

I had ham, to go, so I could make another go at it. Breaded chicken is very popular.

Now another 2.5 hour bus back to Mexico City.

There is a bus station attached to the airport terminal, so it was very convenient.

Passing Popocatepetl volcano on my way down.

After a night by the airport, I head to El Salvador, then Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica for the next three months.

After a wonderful start.

Dia de los Muertos has sorrow but is also a joyful celebration that honours those who have died and keeps their memories alive.

What a great tradition.