Chefchaoen to Fès

Chefchaouen (chef-SHOW-shen) was a five hour bus trip from Rabat.

We stopped for a half-hour food and bathroom break. The restaurant staff seemed very efficient getting the food out quickly!

The main draw seemed to be the grilled kefte.

We entered the Rif mountains, and it looked beautiful but unfortunately it was getting dark for photos.

I thought I might walk to my hotel until I saw it was all uphill! Welcome to the mountains!

I had asked my hotel what was a fair price for the taxi, so I was able to get that instead of the ‘tourist’ price. My first, but not last, face off with Morocco taxis🙄

I was staying in the pedestrian-only Medina.

Walking through the main square which was bright and busy.

And then into a smaller street to my hotel which looked spooky but not scary. I find Muslim countries feel the safest.

My Riad (hotel) had been renovated in a modern style inside.

The room was Japanese-sized but well equipped.

And breakfast was the best I’ve had on this trip.

The location was perfect. It faced Place El Haouta square, with the most photographed fountain in town.

Chefchaouen is known as the ‘Blue City’. Blue honours Jewish traditions of sky and heaven brought by refugees around 1930. It is also believed to keep homes cool and repell mosquitoes. Now it’s a strong tourist attraction.

Leather and wool are popular.

It’s also very cold in the winter and they wear wool capes. The pointed hoods made it look like wizards on the loose!

View of the Quasba (Kasbah) gardens.

Then a climb up the hill to a mosque for a panoramic view.

The Medina is walled so different gates from the 16th century.

More tagine.

And a Turkish Shakshuka with eggs, for a change.

Emlou is made from ground almonds, argan oil and honey. Cheaper versions use peanuts. It’s great with the fresh bread and fruit!

Market in the square.

Then back to the bus station for another five trip to Fès.

Another break, with mint tea.

The ‘Blue Gate’, a main entrance, is actually green on the inside.

Fès was founded during the 8th century, making it the oldest city in Morocco.

And Medina is a UNESCO world heritage site, and is of the world’s largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones.

And for all my exploring, I didn’t touch all the 9000 streets!

I loved how people live there, doing their daily shopping. And tolerating how tourists fit into the mix.

I liked the morning best, before all the tourist shops opened.

Preserved lemons are a big ingredient in Moroccan food.

There are many very old schools and mosques.

And then the tourist entertainment.

Spices.

And all the quiet streets.

The Chouara Tannery is the largest and is reputed to be the oldest in the world at 1000 years.

Seffarine Place is surrounded by copper smiths.

For lunch, complementary loubia beans and olives with my veggie tagine.

And flan and strawberries for dinner.

Outside the Medina, the Jnan Sbil garden was quiet and peaceful. And cool. After freezing in Chefchaouen, it has been 32 oC.

There was also a nice garden outside another gate.

More Royal Palace gates keeping me out.

The mosque next to my Riad.

It’s amazing how unassuming a building can look until you enter.

I’ve gone from a tiny room to a huge one!

Breakfast on the rooftop terrace.

Next, a train to Marrakech!

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