Starting in South Africa

I think this was the longest series of flights I’ve done. And I had the flight from Vancouver to Calgary first.

Fortunately it all went smoothly, and I arrived safely in Johannesburg, South Africa.

It is the start of a new three month adventure through South Africa, a bit of Namibia, Zimbabwe, Zambia, then Tanzania and Kenya.

Joburg, or Jozi, has always attracted fortune seekers.

The city was built after a gold discovery in 1886.

Now it is the richest city in the country as a financial powerhouse, and has a reputation for attracting ambitious people.

The Apartheid Museum was an emotional and powerful journey through South Africa’s history from racism to segregation to apartheid to democracy.

Apartheid was government law from 1948 to 1994. It was segregation in a legal system.

Photos weren’t allowed inside. But I think the films were the most powerful. Politicians justifying why they needed to have control of the ‘savages’ that couldn’t govern themselves. Brutal attacks to quell protests.

I think it was most disturbing because it looked like ICE in the US. Not just history, but currently happening.

And then the incongruous placement of a casino and amusement park across the street.

Next stop was Soweto, which is short for Southwest Township. It grew up from black workers coming to work the gold mines. And then became a place where the government forcibly moved black people.

During apartheid it was illegal for white and black people to mingle, so the blacks were relocated if necessary.

The towers were originally coal powered that polluted the area while generating power only for the white communities.

They are now a place for bungee jumping and free falls.

The area is full of shanties with asbestos roofing, which the government is slowly replacing. A lack of housing is a huge problem. And more people are arriving from other countries in search of their fortunes.

Hector Peterson was 12 years old in 1976 when he was killed by the police during a peace march to deliver a memorandum. The children didn’t understand the police speaking in Afrikaans.

It sparked the Soweto Uprising that moved the country towards democracy.

Hector Peterson Memorial park and wall. He was the first of 176 students who were killed.

Outside one of Nelson Mandela’s houses.

Sunday whites for church.

Zulu buskers on the tourist strip

FNB Stadium is the largest stadium in Africa, built in the shape of a Zulu calabash clay pot.

Constitution Hill was a cluster of four buildings with the eternal flame of democracy.

The infamous Number Four Jail where brutal and demeaning abuse was standard.

There was also the Old Fort and a Women’s Prison.

There was a big display about Gandhi. He had spent 21 years in South Africa, though his focus was the discrimination against Indian people.

I used the Hop On buses because the city is sprawling. And often unsafe.

Joburg is rich by African standards, but there is a huge disparity. Even the audio guide on bus with its sanitized upbeat message recommended a guide for exploring the inner city.

On the bus we went through the central area. Other areas looked okay during the day.

Street art

Statue of a gold miner.

And there are still scars where mining operations were. Companies are coming back to extract whatever they can.

The Rea Vaya is a bus system that would have been an alternative to the Hop On buses.

Taxi services grew because blacks were not allowed on buses. Taxis are still plentiful but the microbuses are everywhere.

Areas amalgamated so Soweto and Pretoria (capital) are now suburbs of Johannesburg.

The rich originally built huge sprawling estates on the high land, far from Soweto and the mining dust.

Our bus took through some gated areas.

There are also rich, mainly white, northern suburbs. I stayed in Rosebank in a hotel attached tons huge mall complex.

It was one area I could walk after dark. And never starve. There was everything from MacDonalds to white linen dining. And three grocery stores.

I had a very nice veg thali for lunch.

Some great buskers.

The jacaranda trees were in bloom. View from hotel and during the bus trip.

They were brought from South America in 1890 but will not be replaced as they are very thirsty. So in 50 years they will be gone.

Joburg and Las Vegas are the only cities built without a good water source.

So now it’s time for South Africa to continue healing the racial and economic damage.

But the biggest impression I’ve had so far is of friendly and smiling people. They have been so helpful and I’m really looking forward to this trip.

Next, Cape Town!

2 thoughts on “Starting in South Africa

  1. What a long flight that must have been. Looking forward to all your forthcoming posts…. was particularly moved by the prison photos in Joberg.
    Renée

    1. It was a long day but happy no delays or cancellations! And they have done a memorable job keeping their history, especially the really painful parts like the prisons. Lots of video with prisoners telling their stories.

Leave a Reply