Seoul Soul

Seoul is such a fascinating contrast of 14th Century history and 21st Century technology that I felt like a time traveller.

My flight from Vancouver to Seoul was over 11 hours and put me 16 hours ahead into the next day.

No wonder my body felt upside down!

Jet lag this direction means I’m awake early mornings but nothing was open except a convenience store.

Fortunately they are very well stocked! I found cold brew coffee – two at 3300 won (Cdn$3.30) plus one free on special. And milk and a gimbap.

Gimbap are like a large maki sushi roll. This one had vegetables. The young woman at the store recommended it from the big selection of ready to eat foods. And it was good, though I want to compare freshly prepared.

They also had some interesting noodle stations, and a pizza making station that was fully automated from selection, payment, to preparation!

I’ve also found the shops a good source for yogurt and boiled eggs.

It was a very rainy day so I took the opportunity for orientation since it’s hard to take photos while holding an umbrella.

And have a lunch of mandu -1000 won (Cdn $1) each. The money conversion is the simplest I’ve had.

Jogye-sa Temple (14th Century) was across the street from my hotel. It is home base of the largest Korean Buddhist order. There was the large wooden prayer hall, and many paper lanterns.

Gyeongbokgung was the first royal palace of the Joseon dynasty.

Originally built in 1418, burnt down in 1592 during the Imjin war, rebuilt in the 19th century, destroyed in 1910 during the Japanese occupation, and rebuilt again.

It’s very popular to rent traditional clothing (hanbok). They encourage it by giving free admission, though I got in free as a senior.

It really added a lot of atmosphere to the palace.

The changing of the guard at 10:00 was very popular too.

Gwanghwamun Square (actually a very long rectangle) is named after the main gate. It’s a recent development (2009 and 2022) that replaced a 16 lane roadway.

It was busy on a Sunday with a marathon and a K-pop concert.

Cheong-gye-chen (chen means river or stream) was a 11 km restored stream that provides a peaceful walking path through the city.

Insa-dong area was a nice shopping street by my first hotel.

A few cheesy souvenir shops, but also very chic design clothes and art shops.

And always restaurants.

Noodle soup that was good with lots of kimchi. 11,000 won

Police buses blocking access around the main court building. They were solid, bumper to bumper, on both sides for blocks, with a small path for pedestrians on one side.

City Hall.

A touch of Canada! It’s a tough market here, though, with tons of coffee shops.

Tourist information at the Namdaemun Market.

Fish cake skewers in a savoury broth.

Fish-shaped ‘Bungeo-ppang’ with custard or sweet bean paste filling (no fish). 1000 won each or three for 2000.

The markets so far have been food stalls, clothing, shoes, souvenirs, groceries but little for fresh produce. I did buy two oranges for 5000 won. Large like a navel orange but peeled like a mandarin.

Changdeokgung Palace was another Joseon dynasty palace.

Hanbok in the Hanok!

Bukchon Hanok Village is a residential area of old hanok houses that the wealthy lived in. Many are shops and guesthouses now, but people live here too. It is swamped with tourists, so custodians enforce a quiet zone that is only open 10-5.

I don’t know what these vendors were selling, but they zipped around on their carts.

Myeongdong was tourist central. It was a very popular shopping area with tons of restaurants and shops, particularly for skin care.

Egg cooked on a sweet bread. 1000 won each.

A busy little local place where there was two choices for lunch. I had noodles, vegetables and meat in a spicy broth. They love their chili here. 9000 won ($9)

They love their sculpture too.

Even the vent pipes were interesting.

Electronic signs giving traffic congestion notices.

Gwangjang Market

They are famous for their mung bean curd pancakes (meokjagolmok). On the left you can see the mung beans being pulverized on a grinding plate. Then bean sprouts are added.

It was cut in half and stacked. 5000 won each.

Seoullo was an overpass converted to a park that overlooks Seoul train station.

More technology for lunch. You chose off the menu and there was a slot for your credit card.

And more chili on the squid and vegetables.

Hotteok, for a sweet change! Brown sugar, cinnamon and peanuts.

A day tour to the Demilitarized Zone to look at North Korea.

They were separate countries after WW2 but the north invaded in 1950. During three years of war six million people died, and the north is still aggressive.

One stop was at a tunnel the North Koreans had dug into South Korea. It was one of four found from 1974 to 1990.

We could visit the Peace Park. Past here, being on a tour group was mandatory.

Very high security and no photos looking north from the Dora Observation Building. This was a mural of what we could see. North Korea starts after the wooded area.

So my week in Seoul has passed very quickly.

It’s a surprising walkable city, though I’ve found the metro great for going further. Everything is paid using a rechargeable card.

I’m pretty well recovered from jet lag, with an extra coffee to keep me going.

At least I’m no longer worried about falling asleep at the crosswalk if the light takes too long!

The weather has been nice with up to 18 and no rain. When I come back here in July to fly home, I expect it will be hot and humid.

But time to wrap this up and pack up for my next stop. Off to the train station!

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