Uruguay Uno

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay is an 70 minute fast ferry ride across the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires, Argentina.

It’s the widest river in the world – 225 km wide at its mouth.

It is still a river because it is fresh water flowing down from the Parana and Uruguay Rivers.

At Montevideo it becomes more salty, then at Punta del Este it is considered the South Atlantic.

Uruguay is one of the most expensive countries in South America. I have found the food, even in grocery stores, very pricy. The ferry ride was Cdn$75.

Colonia is one of the oldest towns in Uruguay.

A Portuguese post was established here in 1680. It’s strategic position in the Rio de la Plata estuary resulted in it changing hands from Portugal and Spain several times.

It’s known for its cobblestoned Barrio Histórico, lined with buildings as its time as a Portuguese settlement, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There were strong spring winds the day I arrived.

Remains of the fort walls.

And some of the most dangerous cobblestone streets I’ve walked on!

And if I don’t sprain my ankle on them, there are also tree roots out for me.

I love bougainvillea.

The streets are filled with trees for shade, though it’s still spring here in the southern hemisphere and 22-24 oC.

It’s a very popular city, and tons of people from Buenos Aires come for weekends. And there are tons of funky cafes, restaurants and gift shops to keep them busy.

Very nice silver bombillas, the filtered straws for drinking mate.

I walked north of the Centro, along the bay. There were many nice sandy beaches but I didn’t see anyone in the water.

Plaza de Toro In Real de San Carlos was a 5 km walk. It’s not used a bull ring now, but has been restored as a venue.

On my way back I found a fish restaurant that was non-touristic. The fish was fresh with the thinnest but crunchiest breading. They call it ‘Milanese’ and often do the same to beef. And the salad and homemade bread were perfect. And only 270 pesos (Cdn$9).

It was the first restaurant meal I’ve bought in a week. Steak and sausage are ubiquitous but I didn’t have the appetite or desire to spend Canadian prices.

My fascination with mate continues. Stanley had coordinated thermos, cup and straw.

And besides clutching everything in one arm (even when riding a bicycle), these totes are popular.

The jacaranda tree only blooms in November (spring). The streets of Buenos Aires were full of them too.

Next was a 2 hour bus ride to Montevideo. It was mainly farmland.

In Montevideo I stayed on Sarandí, a pedestrian street.

Sarandi led down to Plaza Constitución and the Puerta de la Ciudadela (18th century).

Palacio Salvo

Teatro Solis

An outdoor show outside the Teatro with an eclectic mix of chairs!

Mercedo del Puerto (Port Market) was busy Saturday with artists outside and parillas (grill restaurants) inside. They had heated serving dishes that were likely needed as they worked their way through a half a cow.

I went to many museums – some close, some small, but always a good way to have a destination.

Museo Histórico Nacional in Casa Rivera (1802)

Museo del Gaucho (cowboy culture) and money museum in a grand old bank.

Old cashier cages.

Scotiabank on a corner. Another beautiful building.

Museo Gurvich

Feria de Tristán Narvaja was a Sunday street market.

Espacio de Arte Contemporáneo was in a former prison.

Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales was in Parque Rodo, a more posh part of town.

Museo Andes 1972 was the most powerful. It is a museum and memorial for the Andes plane crash that killed 29 from the initial impact but also over the next 72 days from their injuries, hypothermia, starvation, and an avalanche. 16 survived after two men walked for days over incredibly tough conditions.

It was an amazing story of hope, perseverance, team work and love of each other in the ‘Society of the Snow’.

Mittens of hat made from seat material.

They found a pair of little red shoes in the luggage. On every one of their numerous attempts to walk out, they would take one. Their goal was to reunite the shoes safely when home.

Finally had a steak as part of a ‘menu del dia’ (lunch special). Had papa rusa (Russian potato salad) because it’s traditional here.

And of course it came with dessert. I chose flan, more absolute favourite.

My little hotel was converted from a 1927 apartment building It was very funky elegant.

This was the complementary bar in an old stereo.

Walking along the ‘Rambla’, which is a much better word than promenade!

What a difference a day makes! Went from calm and 31 to rain, gale winds and 20 the next day.

So now I’m leaving the big city for Punta del Este, a beach town down the coast. See you there!

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